Check out this UKHillwalking Navigation Article, ARTICLE: Tokyo 2020 Olympic Selection Explained, REVIEW: Mountain Equipment Compressor Hooded Jacket, REVIEW: Gregory Alpinisto 35 Litre Rucksack, Wild Country Summit and Eclipse Harnesses, Mont Blanc Traverse, Cosmiques hut to Gouter H, Mont Blanc Granite - Volume 1: Argentière Basin, Europe's High Points: Reaching the Highest Point of Every Country in Europe, Migrants in the Alps - 'Essential' Shelter faces Closure in Briançon, President Macron visits Chamonix in Climate and Mont Blanc Talks. Een stuk van zijn ’per ongeluk’ ontdekte route werd in 1827 gepubliceerd in het gidsje 'A tour to Great St. Bernard's and round Mont Blanc: a journal and drawings taken from nature’, wat in de Victoriaanse tijd de populariteit van de tocht ’rond de Mont Blanc’ tot enorme hoogte deed stijgen. THE AIGUILLE GRISES (THE POPE ROUTE) – PD+ (Technically not hard but long and remote). So in this article I'll cover everything you need to know about the two most common French routes – The Gouter & The Trois Monts. Move quickly up to the Couloir, pause to check for rocks, and then move quickly across it. ; Geneva: See the Jet d'Eau and fall in love with it. Day 6 : Tramway and hike to the Hörnli Hut on the Matterhorn. 10 or 12 point C1 or C2 are best. But with the rigours of altitude, the potential for some serious weather in any season, the objective dangers of stonefall, seracs and crevasses, and the need for some basic mountaineering skills, it remains a massive undertaking for most teams. The climb from Col de la Brenva to the top of Mont Blanc is longer than it looks, and not as enjoyable as the Bosses ridge, but the scenery is spectacular, and the route finding non-existent (in good weather). Climb Mont Blanc (4808 m, 15770 feet) via the Traverse of Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit, or via the Goûter route depending on conditions. Route (click for voting and user comments) 30 to 40 litres, nothing too fancy or heavy – you've got to carry it after all. A huge white dome surrounded on all sides by thundering glaciers, huge alpine faces and some of the world's most stunning alpine scenery. UKC Articles and Gear Reviews by Charlie Boscoe. This used to be one of the most frequented routes on Mont Blanc as it is a very picturesque traverse over Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248m) and Mont Maudit (4465m) then past the spectacular col Brenva up to the summit. This is not an especially high standard but confidence in your feet will not only make you safer but it will also enable you to use less energy and have a more enjoyable time, so the more time you can log on your spikes the better. 120 mins. Most of the time the axe will be used as a glorified walking stick but there are times during the ascent when the ability to climb steep snow will be aided greatly by confidence in using your axe. The sensationally exposed traverse of the Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey, THE INNOMINATA RIDGE – D+ (On the difficult side of difficult). Auf den Gipfel des Mont Blanc (4.807 m) Früher Aufbruch und über die "Route Royal" zum Dome du Gouter. Acclimatisation is often underestimated and/or misunderstood. An enourmous 3 day route to the summit of Europe, this is one of the most beautiful and sought after lines in the Alps. From here the path gets gradually steeper and more exposed as it zig zags up to the ridge dropping down from the Aiguille du Gouter. Either of these routes can be reversed, and neither is any more difficult to descend than to climb. Simply pass to the left of the Mur de la Cote rock step and then climb the seemingly never ending snow slope above. Up and Down. *At the top of the ridge is a warden's hut, where you may have to show proof of a hut booking, or at least demonstrate that you are not planning to camp in the vicinity of the Gouter hut. This is a long and demanding Alpine day which rewards good fitness and preparation. Since the first ascent of Mont Blanc in 1786, by the French farmer Joseph Balmat and Doctor Payot, the Mont Blanc has never stopped to fascinate and attract people in search of adventure and mountaineering challenge. Also called The Royal Traverse. Here's all you need to know about the new regulations for Mont Blanc. (. Most climbers will do without this but it depends on your climbing comfort level. Descent can be via the Trois Monts route to the Aiguille du Midi (if in condition) or down the Gouter Ridge. Some of the path before the Couloir is exposed to rockfall too, with only the very last few metres before the crossing being sheltered. Climbing hardware. The other skills meanwhile can be learned and practiced fairly easily – get a book about crevasse rescue and just start practicing. From here follow the vague path, polish, crampon scratches and occasional red paint marks up the ridge, over some enjoyable and straightforward scrambling, until at roughly 3600m, where cables have been installed as hand rails. Climbing skills are beneficial, and will make the ascent feel more comfortable, but many of the skills required can be learned in the acclimatization days leading up to an ascent. Some people don't bother but with the rockfall in the Grand Couloir and the scrambling below the Gouter hut it is a good idea to wear a helmet. Focus on map Share. You can put the technical axes away here, a simple mountaineering axe is perfect. Crevasse hauling kit. Having passed to the right of the Vallot hut, a short, steep snow slope leads to the two distinctive humps which mark the beginning of the Bosses ridge. Mont Blanc seen from Col de la Brenva (© P. Gatta) Mont Blanc 4810 m (15,570 ft), Bosses Ridge (normal route) The Bosses Ridge is one of the most popular routes to Mont Blanc. The route varies from year to year, often from month to month, but the line usually goes roughly from the bottom left of the face to the top right, reaching the NW shoulder of Mont Blanc du Tacul in roughly 2 – 3 hours from the hut. 3 hours from the Tete Rousse. A remote and committing climbers’ route to the summit of Mont Blanc from the Italian side. Mont Blanc will be here long after we're all gone, so take your time and achieve it when conditions, weather and your ability align. You will be quicker (and therefore safer from any risk of getting caught in bad weather or still being on the mountain at night) and have a much more enjoyable time. Basic questions such as "what kit do I need?" Rope. The word normally shouted is "caillou" (French for pebble/stone, pronounced ky-oo), but any loud shouts of expletives should work. Late in the season there can be some difficult crevasse crossings below the shoulder, but these are often equipped with a ladder thanks to the local guides! Half a dozen wires should be plenty, plus a few quickdraws. We climb through some of the most chaotic glaciated terrain in the Alps to gain the Col Eccles (4000m) before climbing excellent granite, steep snow crests and mixed ground to reach Mont Blanc de Courmayeur. Don't be afraid to jump the queue – if a group is putting you in danger by making you wait, ask to go ahead. Some people seem to think that a track and regular traffic means that there are no crevasses, but having twice fallen into a crevasse whilst walking along a busy track, I can confirm that this is nonsense! These two fearless explorers opened the historical route through the Grand Mulet on the north side of Mont Blanc and invented alpinism in the meantime. Chamonix: A glamorous town on the ski slopes of Mt. All bookings on these courses are private and can be run from May through October depending on conditions. Rucksack. Many people prefer to quickly dash across rather than introduce ropes and other things that may slow them down. 1 -2 litres, depending on how much you normally drink on the hill. Royal Traverse. You certainly need a warm jacket, a thick beanie, heavy duty gloves and a good shell jacket. Below is an itinerary that we use at Pygmy Elephant for a 11 stage self guided tour, with one rest day in Courmayeur included.Like the classic route, the itinerary circumnavigates the massif counter clockwise, however, rather than starting the tour in Les Houches, the hike begins by taking a gondola to Le Brevent and hiking to Les Houches. Consider saving Mont Blanc for later in your climbing career. Many years later, in … The good news is that Mont Blanc is an achievable target not only for climbers but also for competent winter walkers. Moovit helps you find alternative routes or times. As with all skills, these are often best learned from an expert, so don't be afraid of paying a guide or an instructor for a day or two to teach you. Pick things that you know you can stomach even when you're not feeling great. 12. This can be in a small way or in a larger package that includes discounted products from our sister-publishing company Rockfax. Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital. From the shoulder, continue towards the north face of Mont Maduit, descending slightly before beginning to reclimb beneath some seracs on the left of the face. The final hurdle is ‘just’ the 800m climb up the seriously exposed upper Peuterey ridge to the summit of Mont Blanc before descending the French side. Training in the gym or doing other sports is beneficial but nothing replicates long walking or scrambling days. Mountaineering boot hire can be arranged with Snell Sports in Chamonix. Try out different hauling systems, discuss them and try and perfect them. The glaring downside is that it adds three hours of uphill to your summit day. Charlie, that looks suspiciously like a Rovers emblem your shorts....... excellent and comprehensive. Once across the Couloir and headed for the Gouter hut, you are still threatened by stonefall (but less so) for the first 50 vertical metres or so. If continuing up to the Gouter hut however, take a more direct line towards the Aiguille du Gouter West Face, and cross the Tete Rousse Glacier diagonally, heading for its SE edge, and the ridge which divides it from the Bionnassay Glacier. Good basic crampon skills. The crux step on the Trois Monts can be abseiled (2 x 20 metre abseils), and the Gouter descent does not require any abseils. Climbing a peak of around 3000 metres, one of around 3500 metres and finally a 4000er is ideal. THE ROYAL TRAVERSE – AD (Hard enough) This is a splendid and committing high mountain odyssey which traverses the skyline view as seen on the approach towards Mont Blanc down the Arve valley. High factor sun cream. The route narrowly misses the summit of the Dome du Gouter, but few people bother tagging the top. The Cosmiques hut usually has space last minute too, so logistically things are simpler. The site will continue to be mainly funded by a subtle level of outdoor-only advertising but we now need extra support to ensure we can continue to provide the UKC that we all know and love. Adjacent Areas < Goûter Route | Southwest Face > Trad. This is the most dangerous part of the ascent to the Gouter hut, and serious rockfall accidents occur here regularly. Special offer valid from May 16, 2020 to October 25, 2020. Resting outside the Vallot and feeling pretty wasted. You might be surprised how different doing it for real on the ice feels. The Mont Blanc Refuge reservation has to be made well in advance. Helmet. Mont Blanc course by the Royal Route Enjoy a unique and unforgettable journey on the Mont Blanc Express surrounded by unspoilt nature, an amazing view and typical alpine villages. We make riding to Mont-Royal easy, which is why over 865 million users, including users in Montréal, trust Moovit as the best app for public transit. . Take the Tramway du Mont Blanc to the Nid d'Aigle at 2372m, either by taking the tram from St Gervais, or by meeting it half way having taken the Bellevue cable car from Les Houches (this has the advantage that it can be reached from the rest of Chamonix Valley using public transport). Bionnassay auf den Mont Blanc Hochtour 4000er geführt mit Bergführer The details of this will depend on what you've worked out from practicing crevasse rescue, but a combination of ice screws, slings, abseil cord, karabiners, and pulley devices. From here the route joins the Goûter Route to the summit of Mont Blanc. Hier wenden wir uns unterhalb der Mont Blanc Nordflanke nach Westen und erreichen schließlich den 4237 m hohen Col de Dome. Insurance which must include provision for helicopter rescue (mandatory). Once you can do that then take a day before you go up Mont Blanc and head up the Montenvers train to the Mer de Glace ice. By now dawn should have broken, and you will find yourself in some seriously impressive terrain – the phrase "big country" was invented for places like this! Three long days and two bivouacs are the norm! Keep moving! The Tour du Mont Blanc features in the World’s top ten 'must do' treks and it's not hard to understand why as this trek is outstanding with amazing views day after day. After an early breakfast in the hut, cross the Col du Midi plateau and climb the NW face of Mont Blanc du Tacul. Instructor/Guides The ascent climbs over the rocky towers of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey (3772m) before making some of the most exposed abseils in the Alps to regain the ridge which leads over the steep snow crest of the Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey (4112m). Go around the hut to the right and climb a short snow slope (often equipped with a handrail) to reach the top of the Aiguille du Gouter. These can be learned in Scotland (or anywhere else with snow) but wherever you're practising you ought to be confident front pointing up 45 degree snow as well as traversing, climbing and descending moderate angled (30 – 35 degrees) snow facing in or out. One of the great alpine traverses. And be down it in a couple of hours! Dave on the Pope Route. We need to look at ways to keep the site moving forward whilst maintaining our key aim of allowing free access to everyone to our main content. The route is long and requires good fitness and acclimatistion matched with favourable conditions. Ice Axe. This is an easy day. Follow these to the now disused old Gouter hut, which is now completely locked up, but which does have a fantastic view of the route you will just have completed. Having passed under the Dome, descend gently to the Col des Domes, at the foot of the Bosses ridge. James Clapham Mountain GuideIFMGA/UIAGM Certified Mountain GuideSIRET: 83161772500013Copyright: © James Clapham Mountain Guide 2019. Ice axe, crampons, harness and helmet can be provided for a hire fee of €15 per day. After being on my own all day, it was both comforting and at the same time unwanted to be surrounded by other people as I joined Mont Blanc’s crowded Goûter route, the trade route to the summit. August 2015. First ascent: JM. ! Advertise here. If you use the wire, clip a karabiner to it, clip your rope through the karabiner and then tie each party member on to the rope with plenty of slack and carry the slack in your hands to avoid tripping over it. This is an emergency shelter but many climbers sleep in it, and it has become fairly disgusting, with human waste and rubbish piled up in the corner. Generally the terrain is low angled (roughly 20 – 30 degrees), and straightforward. Most parties on the Traverse leave the hut at about 2 am, after a 1 am wake up time. The climb is made solo, summited 22. Several internship possibilities, from 2 to 6 days, will allow you to prepare yourself and to climb Mont Blanc. When you may be fit, strong and experienced enough to climb to the summit via a more challenging route such as the Kuffner Arete, Peutrey Ridge, Innominata or Freney. It does provide some warmth though, so most people pause here for a bite to eat before the Bosses ridge. This would almost inevitably involve staying in mountain huts, which would provide further acclimatization without breaking the old (and correct) adage to "climb high, sleep low". Well the good news is that Mont Blanc via these two routes is not very technical at all, so you don't need to worry if the thought of Scottish grade IV makes you run for cover. Crampons. Go lightweight and just take a little tube. Go over the Grande Bosse and the Petite Bosse (which, confusingly enough, is the higher of the two), and follow the stunning and exposed snow ridge to the summit, staying mainly on the west side of the ridge.